How to Remove Horizontal Front Folds in Pants Crotch – Sure-Fit Designs

How to Remove Horizontal Front Folds in Pants Crotch – Sure-Fit Designs


Pants fitting, well, can be your nemesis.
In a survey that I did with my customers a while back and I asked the question,
“What’s the most difficult area of pants to fit?” two answers came back – the crotch curve and right underneath the tummy. The focus of today’s video is right
underneath the tummy. Hi everyone, I’m Glenda with Sure-Fit Designs,
whimsically known as Glenda the Good Stitch. What I’m talking about is this
area right here and so depending on how full your tummy is, you might have more
or less fold underneath your stomach and you know when you’re drawing off your
body blueprint and here is the basic pants front from the Sure-Fit Designs
pants pattern, we have a standard curve here that we give you to start with but
when you have finished drawing it and done your test muslin as I say some of
you might need to do a little bit of refinement in that area. And where you’re
going to find instructions to do that is in the Pant Kit instruction book on page
12 and it is number one. And so let’s take a look at what your pants pattern
might look like and here I’ve got a sample up on the wall and step number 12
or so I say page number 12, step number 1 shows you to take a scoop out of the
front crotch curvature like this and it’s going to remove some fabric to
tighten this whole area up and that may be all that you need in order to remove
some of that folding, but if you have a lot of folds going across in this area
that scoop may help a little bit but not be the total answer and so what I’m
going to suggest that you do is actually do a horizontal dart coming across from
the center front and going to nothing at the side seam. And so I have pre-cut this
just for the sake of the ease and demonstration here
and I’ve cut it all the way across up to the side seam and I’ve taped the side
seam and that becomes a pivot point. And so what I’m going to ask you to do is
take the top portion and fold it over top of the lower portion. And you do need
to cut from the excess fabric or excess paper I should say up to the point of
your side seam and then cut through center front like this and I just have a
little piece of tape stabilizing that so I’ll just remove it and then we’re going
to remove a horizontal fold. Now how much do you know how to fold over to create
that dart? Well all that you’ll need to do is in your test pair of pants, do a
basting with pins across the front and that will tell you and show you how much
you’re needing to remove. So let’s say that you’ve got a quarter inch tuck here.
So that means that I’m going to remove or release I should say in this case I’m
working on a wall so I have to release my stabilizers there, I’m going to pivot
the top of the pattern down like this until it overlaps by a quarter of an
inch and what that’s doing is its removing a full half inch from the front
length of the pattern and then I will just restabilize this like this and
that little bit of fold over forming that bit of a a dart shall we say, going
to the side seam where it tapers to nothing is generally all that’s needed
to remove those horizontal folds. And then one last thing that you will do is
continue the Grainline from the pant leg up through into the top portion of the
pants pattern. Now, if you go to the article library in the Sure-Fit Designs
Learning Center, you’re going to see an article there on removing the fold that
is right underneath your tummy and it’s going to show you this process here in even a little bit more detail. Make sure you head on over there
and read that article. And I would like to invite you to join the Sure-Fit
Designs community and you can do that in three easy steps. Make sure you join our
newsletter and when you do you’ll get free gifts to get to started. Second, make
sure that you like and subscribe to my YouTube channel, it’s just Sure-Fit
Designs and make sure that you join our international community of like-minded
seamstresses in our facebook group. It’s facebook.com/groups/surefitdesigns I know you’ll love participating. One final
thought before I actually close this video is please understand that I’m
working on a wall for your convenience so that you can see everything that I’m
doing. At home you’re going to be working on a flat table and it’s going to be
even that much easier.